Suggestive, multifaceted and always interesting: the Argentine capital is a city that fascinates just thinking about it. If visiting Buenos Aires is in your plans , here are my 10 essentials that will make you take advantage of and enjoy your stay to the fullest.

 Buenos Aires is a beast of a city. It is big, it is frantic and it always has interesting plans to offer -and to satisfy- anyone. I am lucky to have been born in the capital and to have lived there my first 20 years.

I am also lucky to have returned recently -after many years without seeing it- and rediscover it through the eyes of a tourist . A true luxury to be able to savor her as only those who feel her as foreign to her at the same time that she is close can do it! So mine and so foreign…

In addition to visiting Buenos Aires following the essentials that I will tell you about here today, I have two other articles on my website about the city that may be useful for organizing your trip:

What to do in Buenos Aires (it is a complete and detailed travel guide with practical information about plans in the city, the best way to move within the city, excursions near the capital, restaurants, accommodation, safe areas… )

What to see in Buenos Aires in 3 days. It is a detailed itinerary with which I help you to organize -coherently and optimizing time- your visit to the capital of Buenos Aires. It also has practical information such as schedules, prices, closing days of the main attractions, tricks to save, etc.

It is increasingly important to travel with good insurance that also includes COVID coverage. Here I leave you a 5% DISCOUNT on the IATI insurance (the one we use and in which many travelers trust).

– Now yes: if it is your first time in the capital, here I will tell you about the essentials to visit Buenos Aires and not leave out the most important thing!

Views of Buenos Aires, Argentina

1. Obelisk of Buenos Aires and Av. 9 de Julio

In the heart of 9 de Julio avenue -the widest in the world- stands almost 68 meters high, the obelisk of Buenos Aires, a historical monument considered an icon of the city -and I would say that of the country as well-.  

Although it is not allowed -at the moment- to climb to the top, it is a ” must ” to approach the intersection of 9 de Julio and Av. Corrientes to take a picture in front of the letters BA in the format of a “vertical garden” with the obelisk and the Argentine flag in the background.

If you want other perspectives of this corner of Buenos Aires, at the corner of 9 de Julio and Av. Roque Saenz Peña there is a small “ viewpoint” over the city police station that will allow you to take pictures from more than 5 meters high. .

BA letters in front of the obelisk on July 9, Buenos Aires

As a curiosity: if you look up at the corner of Av. 9 de Julio and Sarmiento Street, you will see a “chalet” on the terrace of a building. It is the “Chalecito Díaz” , a Mar del Plata-style house that for a few months has reopened its doors to the public for visits and offers different activities (breakfast, wine tasting, pizza party, photography workshops, etc.).

Take advantage of the fact that you are at the intersection of Av. 9 de Julio with Av. Corrientes to also visit this mythical street of theaters and revue shows. In it you will also discover the sculptures of the most popular characters on TV, radio and national entertainment. Corrientes Avenue also has a “Walk of Fame” with stars dedicated to its main artists, Hollywood style.

Views of the obelisk from the Chalecito

2. Plaza de Mayo

The Plaza de Mayo was the founding point of the city, and since then, it has become the scene of the most important political and social events in the city. As a curiosity: during the colonial era, bullfights were held in this square.

Around the Plaza de Mayo you will find several historical buildings that I recommend you visit (they are free).

May Square, Buenos Aires

* Historic town hall

In this building (well, this is an exact reconstruction with some mini-pieces of the original) the colonial council founded by Juan de Garay in 1580 functioned and years later, after the May Revolution of 1810, it became the Government Board .

Throughout its history it also housed the Royal Court of Buenos Aires, the city’s Public Library and even functioned as a prison. Since 1939 it has functioned as a museum and I recommend a visit!

* Metropolitan Cathedral

The cathedral of Buenos Aires is located exactly on the same site where Juan de Garay founded it in 1580. Nothing remains of that first parish church, and the cathedral building that we see today dates from the mid-18th century (and finished in the 19th). It is worth going inside because there are several gems inside, such as the impressive mausoleum with the remains of General San Martín .

Mausoleum of San Martín in the Metropolitan Cathedral of Buenos Aires

* Pink House

This mythical building that presides over the Plaza de Mayo is the seat of the Executive Branch of the country. Inside the Casa Rosada is the office of the president of the nation as well as other dependencies, such as the Mujeres Argentinas room, the Patio de las Palmeras or the Hall of Busts. Guided tours are allowed, but with prior reservation.

Finally, and although it is not specifically in the Plaza de Mayo, but a few meters away and located at the Casa Rosada, I recommend you go to see the Bicentennial Museum .

Located in what were the old Taylor Customs galleries, here you will be able to see hundreds of historical objects that belonged to Argentine leaders -such as the presidential bands- as well as photographs and paintings from different historical moments.

Two highlights: the Cadillac “El dorado II” that Perón bought -but was used by Frondizi, Illia or Alfonsín- and the spectacular mural “Ejercicio plástico” painted in 1933 by David Alfaro Siqueiros and other artists.

Cadillac at the Bicentennial Museum

3. Av. de Mayo and Plaza del Congreso

From the Plaza de Mayo I recommend you walk along Av. de Mayo (the first boulevard the city had) to go to the Plaza del Congreso. In this way you will be able to enjoy one of the most important avenues and arteries of the historic center of the city, but also that you will be able to stop to admire (or get to know if you have time) two great emblems of the capital: the Palacio Barolo and the historic Cafe Tortoni .

Once you arrive at Plaza del Congreso , enjoy the wide-eyed stroll that is packed with details. You must not miss the sculptures in the square, the vision of the National Congress that presides over this space or the “Mill” building that will reopen its doors very soon and you will be able to enjoy its charming confectionery again.

Congress of the Argentine nation

4. Grand Splendid Athenaeum

It was National Geographic magazine that officially confirmed -and with its international speaker- something that the locals already knew: the Ateneo Grand Splendid, a former theater, is today one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world.

** If you like bookstores with history, be sure to visit the “Avila bookstore” , which is the oldest in the city (1785), in the country and there are even those who say it is the oldest in Latin America. In the basement it has a literary cafe so you can read and taste a delicious coffee or infusion.

Ateneo Grand Splendid Bookstore

5. La Recoleta Cemetery

In the heart of one of the most exclusive and charming neighborhoods of the capital is what was the first public necropolis in the city: “the Recoleta cemetery” .

This cemetery is currently privately owned and is considered an “open-air museum” since it has dozens of mausoleums decorated with sculptures made by the best European artists. It is in this cemetery where important figures from the country’s history are buried, such as Eva Perón or Sarmiento .

More than 90 vaults have been declared a National Historical Monument and the museum allows visits (free for residents and payment for foreigners). I recommend that you sign up for a free guided tour of the La Recoleta cemetery because there are dozens of hidden stories and legends… and they are all very interesting! Your visit will really be 100% different if you do it with a guide who will tell you the gloomy and/or curious stories…

Take advantage of the fact that you are in the neighborhood to take a walk around Plaza Francia , where they usually put on a craft fair or visit the Recoleta Cultural Center where they always host interesting exhibitions, carry out activities for the whole family, etc.

In order not to miss a thing, sign up for the free guided tour of the La Recoleta neighborhood. You will explore the streets of this stately Buenos Aires neighborhood.

Recoleta Cemetery

6. Saint Elmo

Another of the most charismatic neighborhoods in Buenos Aires is San Telmo . Ideal to visit on a Sunday since, in addition to the market, you can visit the Antiques Fair in Plaza Dorrego , the 2nd oldest square in the city (after the one on May 25).

In San Telmo on weekends there are usually tango shows in the open air (to the hat), you can take a picture in the Soler Gallery -with the umbrellas-. You can also visit the church, one of the oldest in the city, or see the “minimum house” , which is the narrowest in Buenos Aires.

In the neighborhood of San Telmo and surroundings you can take part in the “Paseo de la Historieta” and sit next to famous Argentine comic characters such as Mafalda. The tour covers part of San Telmo and part of Puerto Madero (which is also included in this top 10 places to visit in Buenos Aires).

My favorite corner of San Telmo is the Pasaje de la Defensa or “Ezeiza house” , former residence of the Ezeyza family -descendants of the first Basques to arrive in the country-. Then it was a school for the deaf and for a few decades it has been a very popular and picturesque commercial gallery.

 A good way to tour and get to know this historic neighborhood better is by signing up for a FREE TOUR of SAN TELMO, where an expert local guide will tell you everything about this corner of Buenos Aires for 3 hours.

Tango in Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo

7. Puerto Madero

In the exclusive neighborhood of Puerto Madero , located in front of the bay, history and modernity merge, contrasting the renovated port spaces with the mirrored buildings that house luxury apartments.

In this area there are lakes and trails to visit the Costanera Sur ecological reserve, but you can also walk next to the area of ​​the dikes where bars and restaurants are concentrated to taste local and international gastronomy.

Two must-sees in this area: the Puente de la Mujer , a suspension bridge that connects the ports; and the Presidente Sarmiento Frigate Museum Ship.

8. Caminito and La Boca

Another of the most popular postcards of Buenos Aires is the colorful passage in the La Boca neighborhood known as: “Caminito” . This passage-museum of about 150 meters shows us what life was like for immigrants, mainly Europeans, who settled in these tenements attracted by the work of the port and the railway. An ideal way to get to know the neighborhood is by signing up for a FREE TOUR of LA BOCA, where an expert local guide will tell you legends and stories of this mythical neighborhood for 2 hours.

Take advantage of the fact that you are in La Boca to get to know the Quinquela Martin Museum , creator of Caminito. There is also the PROA Foundation -it usually has very cool exhibitions, as well as a very complete bookstore and a restaurant with a terrace overlooking the river-.

Finally, a few steps from Caminito is the “Colón Fábrica” , which is a huge shed where the sets and costumes of the works carried out in the Teatro Colón during the last decades are kept and exhibited.

Colorful corners of Caminito, Buenos Aires

9. Palermo and Colegiales: route of the murals

Using urban art as the common thread, you will visit two very popular neighborhoods in the capital: Colegiales and Palermo.

Start at Colegiales, where you can see the mythical mural of Frida Khalo , that of “Alice and the Buenos Aires rabbit” or the murals around the Mercado de las Pulgas (from Tuesday to Sunday from 11am to 7pm).

Take advantage of the fact that you are in the area to get to know this popular space to buy antiques. Not far away is also the “Pasaje General Paz” , which you can peek through its metal bars to see this Buenos Aires jewel that was a collective housing essay from 1925 designed by its owner, the architect P. Vinet.

Follow the urban art route until you reach Plaza Serrano , in the heart of Palermo Hollywood. Around the square it is full of bars and restaurants, but it is also surrounded by alleys with incredible murals and full of colour.

Flea Market, Buenos Aires

10. CCK (or other museums or cultural centers in Buenos Aires)

The city has many museums and cultural centers that cover all kinds of themes and aspects of art.

This last time I was in Buenos Aires I had the opportunity to visit the “CCK” (Kirchner Cultural Center) which is located in the old post office building and its interior is wonderful. On the different floors they offer varied themes and exhibitions. In addition, they usually have activities for adults and children.

If you prefer another type of cultural activity, here is a list of my 5 favorite museums (in addition to those I have already mentioned throughout the text, such as Quinquela Martín, the PROA or the Bicentennial).

Carlos Gardel House Museum in Buenos Aires

GASTRO: 2 cool places to eat in Buenos Aires

The gastronomic offer in Buenos Aires is immense, the bars and restaurants in the city will surprise you. They are all very well decorated, with diverse and fun themes that even make them more striking and interesting.

However, my recommendation today will be two “market” style gastronomic proposals that you may like a lot:

1. Patio de los Lecheros

It is a gastronomic market in Caballito , in the old train station where in the past the milkmen waited for the jars brought directly from the dairy farms on the train to distribute them throughout the city.

Today it has been converted into a space that reminded me a lot of Camden or Shoreditch in London or the Berlin market style. More than 25 food stalls (including vegan and vegetarian options) with tables to share in the center and instagramer decoration to the fullest. There is often live music and other activities (such as film sessions).

My recommendation is to go during the day/afternoon or on weekdays since Friday and Saturday nights are very crowded. A bit of ambiance is fine, but on weekends you’ll have to queue for food, to be seated, etc. I went during the day (and during the week) and I really enjoyed it.

It opens every day from 9am to midnight (it closes around 2 or 3am on weekends).

Patio de los Lecheros, Buenos Aires

2. Carriage Market

Very close to Puerto Madero, a slightly more exclusive gastronomic space was opened recently where there are several gourmet food stalls to sit down to taste there or shops selling products to take away -such as wines or sweets-. 

The “Mercado de Carruajes” owes its name to the fact that it is located on the property that was historically used for the presidential garages of the 19th and early 20th centuries.

It is an area of ​​more than 4,200 square meters that are part of the Historical Heritage of the City . The carriage market is open from Sunday to Wednesday from 8.30am to 10pm. From Thursday to Saturday it opens from 8.30am to midnight and admission is free.

carriage market
There are many FREE TOURS to discover the main neighborhoods of Buenos Aires , as well as private guided tours, day trips to Montevideo (Uruguay) and even an excursion to Tigre . Take a look at this link to all the options you have (free and paid) to get to know the best of Buenos Aires and surroundings!

Accommodation in Buenos Aires

The city has hundreds of accommodation options: from cheap hotels and hostels to tourist apartments.

To experience the city “like a local” and in a safe and economical way, I have opted for an “exchange house” through the HomeExchange platform.

HomeExchange is the world’s leading platform for home exchange between individuals and is present in almost 190 countries.

How does HomeExchange work?

There are two types of home exchange with HomeExchange:

1. Reciprocal exchange of houses. In this mode, a person (partner, family, friends, etc.) stays at your house and you stay at that person’s house. Did you see the movie “The Holiday” with Cameron Diaz and Kate Winslet? Well, something like that.

2. House exchange with “GuestPoints”. In this modality, you can stay in the house offered, but instead of the host going to your house as a reciprocal form of payment, you “pay” him with GuestPoints. Thus, for example, the apartment in which I stayed in Buenos Aires cost 70 guestpoints per night. My hostess will then use those GuestPoints to reserve a house in the destination of her choice.

Accommodation in Buenos Aires

How to create a HomeExchange account? It is very simple! Signing up is free. Then I recommend that you create your profile and once you have all the fields filled in… start looking for a house in your next vacation destination! When you find it, if you want to make a trade you will have to subscribe.

The subscription is annual and costs only €149 (that would be something like the equivalent of €12 a month or less. Much less than it would cost you to stay 2 nights in Buenos Aires, for example).

This €149 annual subscription will entitle you to unlimited exchanges for 12 months , offers you welcome GuestPoints so you can try the experience, 24/7 assistance in your language in case you need help and, of course, provides extra security!

Yes, this subscription is, above all, insurance for you and for the rest of the people who use the platform. This is because it includes protection against possible damage or theft of up to one million US dollars. For the hosts, it gives a deposit of 500us$ for possible minor damage to the property.

Accommodation in Buenos Aires with HomeExchange

Direct flights to Buenos Aires (from Europe)

On my last trip to Buenos Aires (from Spain) I tried the LEVEL company for the first time and I highly recommend it!

I found it to be an exceptional airline that flies from Barcelona to Buenos Aires non-stop and at an affordable price, and that you can shape according to your needs and tastes!

LEVEL offers a basic and cheap rate to take you to your destination (be it Buenos Aires, Chile, New York, Boston, Los Angeles or San Francisco) and from there you can add the services you need: choice of seat, meal(s), comfort kit etc. This way you only pay for what you need and what you are going to use.

My experience with LEVEL has been ten, both going to Buenos Aires and returning to Spain. Ground staff and check-in fast, organized and efficient . The crew on board is friendly and attentive… and the plane is a very comfortable Airbus A330-200!

Level flight from Buenos Aires to Spain

** By the way, Level has a campaign in favor of gender equality called “Tía Vuela” and on the 8th of each month it gives visibility and a voice to a female traveler. A few months ago I was the protagonist and here you can read the article in which I tell “why traveling is investing in yourself”.

** To go from Ezeiza International Airport to the city center you have several options and I have written an article specially dedicated to it (you can read it here). My recommendation is that you book a professional and trustworthy transfer service like the people from Van Al Aeropuerto. Reasonable price, impeccable service and incredible benefits like not charging for waiting. In addition, they offer baby/child seats -included in the price- and they even contact you in advance to let you know who will be your designated driver and the car in which you will travel!

illuminated obelisk

Is it safe to travel to Buenos Aires?

One of the questions that I have been asked the most when I was touring the city -which is my city- was whether it was safe.

Buenos Aires is a large metropolis with safer areas than others , but, as a rule, I recommend that you move only through the most touristy neighborhoods and still go with caution and being attentive . Try to explore the neighborhoods during the day and while you do it, don’t wear expensive cell phones, watches, cameras…

If you have to withdraw money from an ATM, let it be in one that is in a shopping center and keep the money well. If you are going to use your cell phone on the street, hold it tight and pay attention. There are many “mobile phone thieves” “hunting for the distracted tourist”, especially in highly touristic places like La Boca, San Telmo, Palermo…   

In any case, do not risk it -neither for theft nor for health- and travel with good insurance. I recommend IATI travel insurance -it is the one I always use on all my trips- which, for example, for a 2-week trip in Argentina costs you from €40 and you will have medical assistance of up to €50,000 included due to COVID and covers costs of convalescence in the hotel. In addition, the insurance covers you for theft and damage to your luggage, due to delays in the delivery of your checked luggage.

Buenos Aires facades decorated with fillets

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